Like many of you, I’ve spent years scrutinising food labels due to my numerous allergies. It’s a skill that became second nature, helping me navigate supermarket aisles safely. When I embarked on my clean beauty journey, I realised this same skill could be invaluable in the world of skincare.
Reading skincare labels might seem daunting at first, but if you can decipher a food label, you’re already halfway there. This guide will help you transfer those label-reading skills to your skincare routine, empowering you to make informed choices about the products you apply to your skin.
As someone who’s walked this path, I understand the initial feeling of being overwhelmed. Those long lists of unfamiliar ingredients can be intimidating. But trust me, with a bit of knowledge and practice, you’ll soon be navigating skincare labels with the same confidence you have when checking food ingredients.
In this article, we’ll explore why reading skincare labels matters, how to decode those complex names, and what to look out for – both the beneficial and potentially harmful ingredients. Whether you’re dealing with skin sensitivities, trying to make more eco-conscious choices, or simply aiming for a more effective skincare routine, this guide will equip you with the tools you need.
So, let’s unravel the mystery of skincare labels together. Your skin will thank you for it!
The Importance of Reading Skincare Labels
Understanding the importance of reading skincare labels is crucial for anyone looking to maintain healthy skin and make informed choices about their skincare routine. I have outlined below why this skill is so vital:
- Identify Potential Allergens or Irritants
Everyone’s skin is unique, and what works for one person may cause irritation for another. By reading skincare labels, you can spot potential allergens or irritants before they come into contact with your skin. This is particularly important if you have sensitive skin or known allergies. Common irritants include certain fragrances, essential oils, and preservatives.
- Avoid Harmful Chemicals
Did you know the skincare industry isn’t as tightly regulated as you might expect? Some products contain ingredients that have been linked to health concerns ranging from skin irritation to more serious issues like hormone disruption or increased cancer risk. By familiarising yourself with these ingredients, you can make conscious choices to avoid them.
- Choose Products That Suit Your Skin Type
Different skin types require different ingredients. For instance, if you have oily skin, you might want to avoid heavy oils and look for non-comedogenic ingredients. On the other hand, if you have dry skin, you’ll want to seek out hydrating ingredients. Reading skincare labels allows you to tailor your routine to your specific skin needs.
- Ensure You’re Getting Effective Active Ingredients
Many skincare products make bold claims about their effectiveness, but the proof is in the ingredients list. By reading skincare labels, you can verify whether a product contains the active ingredients it claims to have, and in what concentration. This knowledge helps you avoid products that are all marketing hype and little substance.
- Avoid Redundancy in Your Routine
When you understand what’s in your products, you can avoid unnecessarily duplicating ingredients across different steps of your routine. This not only saves your hard-earned money but also reduces the risk of overloading your skin with too much of a particular ingredient.
- Make Eco-Friendly and Ethical Choices
Reading skincare labels can help you make choices that align with your values. For instance, you might choose to avoid ingredients derived from animals if you’re vegan, or steer clear of ingredients known to be harmful to the environment.
- Understand Product Formulation
As you become more confident at reading skincare labels, you’ll gain insight into how products are formulated. This knowledge can help you understand why certain products work well together, and why others might not.
- Save Money
Who doesn’t love to save some money in this current economic climate? By understanding ingredients, you can often find more affordable alternatives to expensive products. Many high-end skincare items have similar ingredients to their less expensive counterparts.
- Troubleshoot Skin Issues
If you’re experiencing skin problems, being able to read and understand ingredients can help you identify potential culprits in your current routine. This skill can be invaluable when trying to resolve issues like breakouts, dryness, or irritation.
- Empower Yourself as a Consumer
Ultimately, reading skincare labels empowers you as a consumer. Instead of relying solely on marketing claims or brand reputation, you can make informed decisions based on what’s actually in the product.
The Basics of Reading Skincare Ingredients
Understanding how to read skincare labels is a crucial skill for anyone looking to make informed decisions about their skincare routine. My 10 point strategy will have you reading skincare labels like a pro in no time :
- Order of Ingredients
Ingredients are listed in descending order by quantity. This means that the ingredient with the highest concentration is listed first, and the ingredient with the lowest concentration is listed last. This rule applies to all cosmetic products in the UK, EU, and many other countries.
Why it matters: This ordering helps you understand what makes up the bulk of the product. If a beneficial ingredient you’re looking for is near the end of the list, it may be present in such small quantities that it doesn’t provide significant benefits.
- The First Five Ingredients
The first five ingredients typically make up about 80% of the product’s contents. These ingredients form the base of the product and are responsible for its primary effects and texture.
Why it matters: Paying close attention to these first five ingredients can give you a good idea of what the product is really made of and whether it’s likely to suit your skin type.
- The 1% Rule
Ingredients listed after the first 1% are often present in trace amounts. In the EU and UK, ingredients that make up less than 1% of the product can be listed in any order.
Why it matters: While small amounts of certain active ingredients can still be effective, be wary of products that prominently advertise ingredients that appear near the end of the list.
- ‘INCI’ Names
Ingredients are usually listed using their International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) names. These are standardised names that are the same across different countries and languages.
Why it matters: INCI names allow for consistency and help avoid confusion, but they can sometimes make familiar ingredients sound unfamiliar or chemical-like. I will go over some of them later on.
- Preservatives and Fragrances
Preservatives are usually listed towards the end of the ingredient list. Fragrances, often listed as ‘parfum’ or ‘fragrance’, can be a cocktail of many different ingredients.
Why it matters: Some preservatives and fragrance components can be irritating or allergenic for certain individuals.
- Active Ingredients
In the UK and EU, active ingredients in skincare products don’t need to be listed separately or with their concentrations. This is different from in the US, where certain ‘drug’ ingredients must be listed separately with their concentrations.
Why it matters: This can make it harder to determine the concentration of active ingredients in products sold in the UK and EU.
- ‘May Contain’ Lists
Some products, particularly colour cosmetics, may have a ‘may contain’ or ‘+/-‘ list at the end of the ingredients. These are ingredients that may or may not be present in the specific shade you’re looking at.
Why it matters: If you’re allergic to any of these ingredients, it’s best to avoid the product or check with the manufacturer about the specific shade.
- Natural vs. Synthetic Ingredients
Both natural and synthetic ingredients are listed using their INCI names. Don’t assume that long, chemical-sounding names are necessarily synthetic or that short, familiar-sounding names are natural.
Why it matters: Natural doesn’t always mean better or safer, and synthetic doesn’t always mean harmful. It’s important to judge each ingredient on its own merits.
- Water as the First Ingredient
Many skincare products list ‘Aqua’ (water) as the first ingredient. This is normal and doesn’t necessarily mean the product is diluted or less effective.
Why it matters: Water is often necessary as a solvent for other ingredients and to create a pleasant texture.
- Spotting Marketing Tricks
Be wary of ingredients listed in brackets after another ingredient, like ‘Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (Organic Aloe Vera)’. The bracketed term is often there for marketing purposes and isn’t part of the official INCI name.
Why it matters: These bracketed terms can sometimes be misleading, making an ingredient seem more natural or beneficial than it might be.
By understanding these basics of reading skincare labels, you’ll be better equipped to decipher product ingredients and make informed choices about your skincare routine. Remember, it takes practice to become proficient at reading ingredient lists, so don’t be discouraged if it seems overwhelming at first. With time, you’ll become more familiar with common ingredients and their effects on your skin.
Common Harmful Ingredients to Watch Out For
When reading skincare ingredients, it’s crucial to be aware of potentially harmful substances. Here’s alook at five common ingredients that you might want to avoid:
- Parabens
What they are: Parabens are a group of preservatives commonly used in skincare products to prevent the growth of bacteria and mould. Look for ingredients ending in ‘-paraben’ such as methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and ethylparaben.
Why they’re harmful: Parabens have been shown to mimic oestrogen in the body, potentially disrupting hormone function. Some studies have linked them to breast cancer and reproductive issues, although research is ongoing. As someone who is currently struggling to start a family, this was the first ingredient I made sure wasn’t in any of my skincare products.
Alternatives: Look for products that use natural preservatives like grapefruit seed extract, and potassium sorbate, or products that are packaged in a way that minimises bacterial contamination.
- Phthalates
What they are: Phthalates are a group of chemicals used to increase the flexibility and softness of plastics. In skincare, they’re often used in fragrances and as plasticisers in products like nail polish.
Why they’re harmful: Phthalates have been associated with hormone disruption, particularly affecting male reproductive development. They’ve also been linked to liver and kidney damage with long-term exposure.
How to spot them: Phthalates are often hidden under the term ‘fragrance’ or ‘parfum’ on ingredient lists. Look for products that specify ‘phthalate-free’ or ‘fragrance-free’.
- Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde-releasing Preservatives
What they are: Formaldehyde and chemicals that release formaldehyde are used as preservatives in many skincare products. Common formaldehyde-releasing preservatives include DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, and quaternium-15.
Why they’re harmful: Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen and can also cause skin irritation and allergic reactions in some people. Long-term exposure has been linked to certain types of cancer.
Alternatives: Look for products that use alternative preservatives or self-preserving formulations. Natural preservatives like rosemary extract or grapefruit seed extract are becoming more common.
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
What they are: Apart from being a mouthful to pronounce! SLS and SLES are surfactants, which means they help to create a lather in products like cleansers and shampoos. They’re effective at removing oil and dirt from the skin and hair.
Why they’re harmful: These ingredients can strip the skin of its natural oils, leading to dryness, irritation, and a compromised skin barrier. They can be particularly problematic for people with sensitive skin or conditions like eczema.
Gentler alternatives: Look for products that use milder surfactants like cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium cocoyl isethionate, or glucosides.
- Oxybenzone
What it is: Oxybenzone is a chemical sunscreen ingredient that absorbs UV light. It’s commonly found in sunscreens and other skincare products with SPF.
Why it’s harmful: Oxybenzone has been shown to penetrate the skin and enter the bloodstream. It’s associated with hormone disruption and has been linked to lower testosterone levels in adolescent boys and potential effects on foetal development when used by pregnant women.
Environmental concerns: Oxybenzone has also been found to contribute to coral reef bleaching, leading some locations to ban sunscreens containing this ingredient.
Alternatives: Look for mineral sunscreens that use zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as active ingredients. These provide effective sun protection without the potential hormonal effects.
When reading skincare ingredients, it’s important to remember that everyone’s skin is different, and what causes issues for one person may be fine for another. However, being aware of these potentially harmful ingredients allows you to make informed choices about the products you use.
If you’re concerned about any ingredients in your skincare products, it’s always a good idea to consult with a dermatologist. They can provide personalised advice based on your skin type and any specific concerns you may have.
Remember, the skincare industry is constantly evolving, with new research emerging about various ingredients. Staying informed and regularly reviewing the products you use can help ensure you’re making the best choices for your skin’s health.
Identifying Beneficial Ingredients
While it’s important to be aware of potentially harmful ingredients, it’s equally crucial to recognise beneficial ones. Here’s an in-depth look at some ingredients you might want to seek out when reading skincare ingredients:
- Hyaluronic Acid
What it is: Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in our skin that can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water.
Benefits: It provides intense hydration, plumps the skin, and can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
How to use it: Look for it in serums and moisturisers. It works well for all skin types, especially dehydrated skin.
Variations: You might see it listed as sodium hyaluronate or hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, which are smaller molecule forms that can penetrate the skin more deeply.
- Niacinamide
What it is: Also known as Vitamin B3, niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin that offers multiple skin benefits.
Benefits: It helps strengthen the skin barrier, reduces inflammation, regulates oil production, and can help fade hyperpigmentation.
How to use it: It’s versatile and can be found in various products from primers to moisturisers. It’s generally well-tolerated by most skin types.
Tip: Niacinamide works well in combination with many other active ingredients, making it a great addition to any skincare routine.
- Retinol
What it is: Retinol is a type of retinoid, which is derived from Vitamin A.
Benefits: It’s known for its anti-ageing properties, including reducing fine lines and wrinkles, improving skin texture, and helping with acne.
How to use it: Start with a low concentration and gradually increase. It’s typically used in night creams or serums.
Caution: Retinol can cause irritation and increased sun sensitivity. Always use sun protection when using retinol products.
- Vitamin C
What it is: A potent antioxidant that comes in various forms in skincare, including L-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
Benefits: It helps protect against free radical damage, promotes collagen production, and can help brighten the skin and fade hyperpigmentation.
How to use it: Look for it in serums or moisturisers. L-ascorbic acid is the most potent form but can be unstable. Other forms are more stable but may be less potent.
Tip: Vitamin C works well when paired with Vitamin E and ferulic acid for enhanced stability and efficacy.
- Peptides
What they are: Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as building blocks of proteins in our skin.
Benefits: They can help stimulate collagen production, improve skin firmness and texture, and have anti-ageing effects.
How to use them: Peptides are often found in serums and moisturisers. They’re generally well-tolerated by most skin types.
Types: There are many types of peptides, including signal peptides, carrier peptides, and neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, each with specific benefits.
When reading skincare ingredients, looking out for these beneficial components can help you choose products that address your specific skin concerns. Remember, what works best can vary from person to person, so it may take some experimentation to find the right combination of ingredients for your skin.
Also, keep in mind that the effectiveness of these ingredients can depend on their concentration in the product and how they’re formulated. A product containing a beneficial ingredient isn’t automatically effective if the ingredient is present only in a very small amount or if it’s not formulated in a way that allows it to penetrate the skin effectively.
Decoding Complex Names When Reading Skincare Labels
Don’t be put off by scientific-sounding names. Many natural ingredients have complex INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) names. Here are some common ingredients you might encounter:
- Tocopherol: This is simply Vitamin E, a potent antioxidant that helps protect the skin from free radical damage.
- Ascorbic Acid: Better known as Vitamin C, this ingredient is prized for its brightening and collagen-boosting properties.
- Sodium Chloride: This is just table salt, often used as a thickening agent in skincare products.
- Butyrospermum Parkii: This is the INCI name for shea butter, a rich emollient that’s excellent for dry skin.
- Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil: This is sunflower seed oil, a non-comedogenic oil that’s high in linoleic acid and good for most skin types.
- Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil: This is jojoba oil, which closely mimics human sebum and is beneficial for balancing oil production.
- Mel: This is the INCI name for honey, which has natural antibacterial properties and is often used in moisturising products.
Other examples of ingredients with complex names include:
- Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice: This is aloe vera, known for its soothing and hydrating properties.
- Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract: This is green tea extract, valued for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits.
- Persea Gratissima Oil: This is avocado oil, which is rich in fatty acids and excellent for dry or mature skin.
- Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract: This is grape seed extract, another potent antioxidant.
- Cocos Nucifera Oil: This is coconut oil, which has moisturising and antimicrobial properties.
- Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil: This is sweet almond oil, a mild, hypoallergenic oil suitable for all skin types, well unless you have a nut allergy like me!
- Oryza Sativa Bran Oil: This is rice bran oil, rich in vitamin E and known for its skin-softening properties.
When reading skincare ingredients, it’s helpful to familiarise yourself with these INCI names. Many ingredients that sound chemical are actually derived from natural sources. Conversely, some natural-sounding ingredients may be synthetic versions of natural compounds.
If you’re unsure about an ingredient, don’t hesitate to look it up or use ingredient checker apps or websites. With practice, you’ll become more adept at recognising common ingredients despite their complex names, making the process of reading skincare ingredients easier and more informative.
Remember, the complexity of an ingredient’s name doesn’t necessarily indicate whether it’s beneficial or harmful. It’s more important to understand the properties and potential effects of each ingredient on your skin.
Conclusion
When I first started reading skincare labels, I felt overwhelmed. The lists seemed endless, and the names were often unpronounceable. But I reminded myself that I once felt the same way about food labels, and look how far I’ve come with those!
As I’ve journeyed through my clean beauty era, I’ve realised that reading skincare ingredients isn’t just about avoiding harmful substances – it’s about understanding what I’m putting on my skin and why. It’s about making choices that align with my values and my skin’s needs.
Yes, it takes time and practice. There were moments when I wanted to give up and just buy whatever looked good on the shelf. But every time I successfully identified an ingredient that didn’t suit my skin or found a product packed with beneficial components, I felt a sense of empowerment. It was like solving a puzzle, and my skin reaped the rewards.
Remember, this is a skill you’re developing. Like me, you might make mistakes along the way, and that’s okay. What matters is that you’re taking control of your skincare routine and making informed decisions.
So the next time you pick up a skincare product, take a moment to flip it over and read that label. Use the knowledge you’ve gained here, and don’t be afraid to do further research if you’re unsure about something. Your skin is unique, and now you have the tools to cater to its specific needs.
As someone who’s walked this path, I can tell you it’s worth it. The confidence you’ll gain in choosing products, the improvements you might see in your skin, and the peace of mind of knowing exactly what you’re using are invaluable.
Here’s to healthier, happier skin and the power of knowledge. You’ve got this!
